In the past two weeks, I've heard two pretty wild stories about how lace wigs were applied by stylists. In one instance, a customer called to tell me that the "glue was buckling under her lace." After asking her to repeat this several times, because I couldn't imagine what she was talking about, I finally realized that her stylist had left about an inch of lace on the hairline of her wig and literally glued the wig down to her forehead.
Apparently the stylist had used so much glue that it buckled when it dried - quite like how Elmer's Glue bubbles when it dries under paper. Got the picture? In this case, the glue dried leaving bumps under the lace which could clearly be seen on her forehead.
In another incident, the customer was concerned about the appearance of her wig after it had been applied by her stylist because she could see a ridge around the hairline of her wig and hair "under the lace cap." I couldn't even imagine this, so again, after questioning and actually her sending a picture, I could see that the stylist had applied the wig by folding the hairline of the cap under and -- somehow because I still can't imagine it really -- attaching the wig to the customers head. In doing this a ridge was formed by the lace, quite like folding material like mohair, for example. You could see the ridge of the fold; some of the hair at her hairline was on top of the fold and some was under the fold. The hair that was under the fold sort of created a bang, which the stylist cut along with the hairstyle.
One of the questions I am frequently asked by lace front newbies is how close should the lace be cut to the hairline. Or, how much lace should I leave around the perimeter of the wig. My answer is, "NONE." The lace should be cut back to the hairline. That way, when the wig is applied, it actually looks like the hair is growing from the scalp of the wearer.
So where did this notion of leaving about an inch of lace on the wig come from? We've all seen Tyra and Beyonce' in their earlier lace wig wearing days with the lace still attached to their wigs and the wig glued down to their heads. Why did their stylists do this?
Enter the theatre. Lace wigs are often worn by stage performers (ergo Tyra and Beyonce). For some reason I myself am not quite sure of, about an inch of lace is left on the performer's wig. The lace is then covered with pancake make-up. Because of the make-up and distance, the lace usually cannot be seen from the audience. Additionally, in the theatre, there are no up close shots like there are on television and by the paparazzi.
Pancake make-up aside, in close shots of Beyonce, or Tyra, you could clearly see the lace. You could especially see the glue under the lace as the lace started to lift. The brow is often furrowed when making facial expressions, so lace will lift easily if applied to forehead instead of hairline.
In every day wear the lace can clearly be seen - I don't care how close of a match the colour of the lace is to your skin. The lace can especially be seen in offices, malls and other places with bright flourescent lighting. Even if you did a good job of covering the lace with make-up, anyone who walked up on you WILL be able to see the lace AND the makeup that is caught between the mesh in the lace.
So ladies, please cut the lace all the way back to the hairline with a pair of small sharp scissors. Cutting the lace is as simple as 1 - 2 - 3:
- First pull the hair back into a ponytail, or large clip.
- Then, using large bobbie pins, or hair clips, clip back all of the baby hair to prevent the hair from being cut - and later from getting stuck in the bonding adhesive, or tape.
- Beginning anywhere, with a small pair of sharp scissors, cut the lace all the way back to the hairline. Take small snips so that if you make a mistake by slightly cutting into the hairline, it won't be noticeable.
Cutting into the hairline where the hair is will not damage the wig overall. The hair has been individually ventilated into the wig; snipping in one place will not unravel any "threads" in a lace wig. There are no threads. Further, if you need to create a special hairline for yourself, or want to cut the hairline back at the temples, or over the ears, you can. You won't damage the wig.
The Hair Network sends detailed instructions with its Glamourlace Wigs. In both of the examples mentioned above, the customer received the instructions, but the stylists insisted on doing it their way. Lace front wigs are still relatively new and stylists may not know how to properly apply them.
Honestly, cutting the lace is something you can do yourself. However, if you want your stylist to do it, please take whatever instructions you were given with you to your appointment and insist that the lace be cut all the way back to the hairline.
Stay Glamourous